on the various soapmaking pages, i cover in detail the process, but I
don't [clearly] list the recipe. i didn't do this because oil selection
is a matter of personal preference, and once that's decided, all that's
left is to calculate your lye and water rates. i figured listing my
recipes would be redundant. in any event, (as an afterthought), i'm
listing here the recipes i use for making the "bar soap", "cream soap", "liquid soap", "transparent |
|• bar soap - cold process oven process|
recipe #1: this is your basic bar, 2 parts olive oil (for mildness), 1 part each coconut oil (for lather) and palm oil (for hardness) with a little castor oil thrown in for emollience. this recipe has an 8% lye discount.
recipe #2: castille soap is known for its mildness, however, it doesn't lather well. this recipe adds 10% coconut oil to boost the lather and 5% palm oil for additional hardness. this recipe has an 8% lye discount.
fyi: technically, true castille soap is made from 100% olive oil, but in actual practice, many people consider any soap with an olive oil content of 75% or more as being castille.recipe #3: this is a recipe for a great goat's milk soap but with or without the goat's milk, it still produces a rich-lathering, non-drying, luxurious hard bar. this recipe has an 8% lye discount.
the amount of goat's milk [powder] is determined by the water amount and how much powder is needed (when combined) to reconstitute whole goat's milk.recipe #4: this recipe focuses on the emollience factor and is made to be gentle and mild with the moisturizing benefits from the luxurious butters and oils (cocoa butter, emu oil, mango butter) -- which are held out and added at trace. this recipe has an 9% lye discount.
|• cream soap - hot process -- (see "cream soap notes")|
recipe #1: this is the recipe i followed for my initial batch. i was very satisfied with the results so i've stuck with it. this recipe was used with the procedure outlined in "cream soap - 1" and uses the stove-top double-boiler method and is supercreamed with boric acid.
recipe #2: this recipe was used with the procedure outlined in "cream soap - 2" and uses the oven method and is supercreamed with stearic acid. This recipe also incorporates aloe vera, allantoin, kaolin clay, hydrolized silk, and goat's milk.
recipe #3: this is similar to recipe #2 in that it follows the cream soap - 2 method and had the same additives. the difference is that this recipe uses a lower percentage of stearic acid (drag, irritation) and coconut oil (drying). also in this formula, i've substituted emu oil (emolience) for the olive oil.
|• liquid soap - hot process - paste method|
° this is whole or reconstituted milk.
* this represent the dilution rate.
† these percentages are based on [the weight of] the diluted soap.
‡ if desired, a preservative (1% suttocide) can be added to any of the formulas. see note on possible color change.
recipe #1: this is a basic formula, using equal parts castor, coconut, and olive oils. it lathers very well, but is a bit drying.
recipe #2: this formula reduces the coconut oil to one fourth and adds a total of 2% emollient oils (emu oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter). this soap has a less robust lather [than recipe #2], but is less drying. the [whole or reconstituted] goat's milk, which is incorporated during the cooking process, results in a soap that is still transparent, but darker amber colored. at this stage, goat's milk can be used at a rate of [up to] 10% of the oil weight.
recipe #3: this is the same recipe as recipe #2 except the coconut oil is reduced further to about one fifth. shea oil is substituted for the emu oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter. also, the goat's milk has been omitted [from the cooking process].
• a note on goat's milk:
-- the goat's milk added during the cooking process (recipe #2) can be applied to any of the above recipes.
-- except where added to the cooking process, goat's milk can be added to the diluted soap in any of the above recipes
-- when added to the diluted soap, gm powder is recommended. -- if you tried to use liquid whole milk in addition to the dilution water, you'd over dilute the soap. if you tried to use it in substitution for [part of] the dilution water, the soap won't dissolve completely.
-- although the above displays a rate of 3%, you can use up to 4% gm powder. -- the milk has a dampening effect on the lather.
-- goat's milk added at the dilution stage will compromise the soap's transparency.
|• transparent m&p soap - hot process - (non) alcohol method|
recipe #1: this is the recipe i formulated for making a 1-lb. batch of transparent soap. it's based on ms. failors "copra soap" which she formulated for its firmness through the addition of stearic acid. her original formula contained a higher percentage of coconut oil, which [for the sake of mildness] i've chosen to decrease in favor of increased palm oil. this recipe represents a 50/50 soap/solvent formula.
although the sorbitol amount (in the "scratch" formula) is outside the upper range (6% - 9%) suggested by c. failor, it was necessary to bring the soap to clarity ... this did not result in any problem with sweating or stickiness [after curing]. the lye water amount is less than indicated by the calculation: (2.08 x lye amount). this [discount] was necessary to compensate for the additonal water needed to dissolve all the sorbital.
note: from what i've learned from making transparent "liquid" soap, the coconut oil (lauric acid) is crucial for clarity of the soap, so perhaps the increased coconut oil would've improved clarity, making such a high percentage of sorbitol solution unnecessary. using less palm oil and/or stearic acid would, likewise, require less solvent. ...some things to consider when experimenting with other possible formulas.
as for additives, i incorporate them into the respective remelted bars. this recipe is for a generic base, but you could easily alter it (e.g. infusing herbs or botanicals into your oils or water; substituting aloe for the water, etc.). these changes would effect the character but not the performance of the base. (any changes to the oils, however, would entail a reformulation of the recipe.)
the process outlined on the transparent soap page covers converting bar soap to transparent. using the "soap" portion of the above "scratch" recipe (or whatever formula you choose) you could easily prepare a slap of cold process (cpop) soap, and then process that as if converting from bar soap. that way you could divide the soap into four equal parts, and test each quarter with a different combination of solvents (e.g. propylene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol/sugar solution). you could then do a side-by-side comparison of the resulting molded bars. this recipe produces 4 (4.5 oz.) bars -- or slightly over 1 pound of transparent soap base.
the quantities in the "bar soap" column are based on converting eight ounces (226.8 gm) of grated soap ...which will result in approx. 1 lb of transparent
note: adding these solvents to existing bar soap will produce a remeltable soap, however, in order to achieve "transparency", the existing soap needs to be "clean", with no opaque or unsaponified solid matter (e.g. opague coloring, unsaponified oils or butters, clays, powders, etc.).
recipe #2: this recipe does not contain any additional stearic acid and did, in fact, require less solvent.
* addendum: the supplier, whose ingredients list on which these recipes are based, has since changed his formula and has now replaced the propylene glycol with sorbitan oleate (which is also readily available). i suspect this was because propylene glycol, (albeit considered safe for use in many of our foods, drugs, and cosmetics), is a derivative of natural gas, and is not universally accepted. i've not yet done any test with sorbital oleate, so i don't know if it would be substituted in the exact same quantity for the propylene glycol.
|• whipped soap|
recipe #1: this is the recipe i formulated for making a 1-lb. batch of whipped soap. i'm using my usual tetralogy of oils (castor, coconut, olive, and palm) with shea butter thrown in for extra emollience.
the recipe examples shown by "terry nisbet", (the creator of this process), don't reflect any superfatting, however, in this recipe, i'm discounting the lye 5%.
also, i'm adding goat's milk to the mix. the water amount (with no discount) would've been 170.3 gm. substituting the goat's milk for the water, (and using powdered goat's milk), the powder portion is 18.9 gm.; the water portion is 151.4 gm. (to reconstitute goat's milk, the ratio is 1 part powder to 8 parts water.) the water is used with the lye; the powder is mixed with the oils. see "making goat's milk soap" for more details on this procedure.